How to Paint Gore + Blood Effects

If you have any questions / comments, please feel free to post on the forum thread for this tutorial.

This tutorial is about painting blood and guts...

So first here's a picture of my kitten:

:shock: :shock: :shock: Hopefully that'll balance out the amount of red sticky stuff about to come..


For this you will need:
Blood mix *see below*
GW Paints: Chainmail, Devlan Mud, Scorched Brown, Bleached Bone, Fortress Grey.
Tamiya 'clear' Paints: 'Smoke' (x17) 'Clear Red' (x27)
Nice brushes, I recommend W&N Series 7 or Series 7 Miniature
An airbrush, or the cheaper alternative of a cocktail stick!
Halfords Grey Primer (yes I love it)

I'm demonstrating this on a weapon, but I used it on my bragg mini.
Step 1
Priming, halfords grey all the way; it's the tits, no debate here, buy some, it's amazing to paint over, and it protects your little toy soldiers from the rigours of battle/storage/abuse!

Step 2
Undercoating: Calthan Brown (foundation, good coverage=win!) and chaos black - I always undercoat any area which is going to be silver black, and anywhere gold/bronze brown: = easier smoother coverage.

Step 3
Highlighted straps 1:1 Bleached Bone:Fortress grey, it's a nice neutral mix with good coverage
Blade = Chainmail, three thin (skimmed milk) watered down coats.

Step 4
Everyone's Favourite - Devlan Mud all over, wait for it to dry 100%, if you want more shading go for another coat; I kept it light because the red will show up better on something which hasn't been dulled hugely.

Step 5
Highlights, Chainmail on the edge of the blade, repeat the mix from step 3 on the straps.

Step 6
Airbrush Method: This takes a bit of practice (elsewhere on a piece of paper before the model, once you push that trigger there's no going back :shock:), and a dual action airbrush. Turn your pressure down low put in a drop of blood mix, you won't need much pull the needle back, then allow it to go forwards, then press down on the trigger, releasing the pressure, this should make a 'splatter' of blood as the needle released onto the needle is all blown off in one go.
Easier/cheaper Methods
Flick it off a toothbrush (only works if it's not already on the model/you're doing the model in general, or you can mask off the other areas)
Take one toothpick, and dab on your mix, try and keep it 'random'

Step 7
Using your blood mix paint thin streaks down the blade (or in the case of general gore wherever rivulets of blood would form - e.g. if it's flowing down arms then in the creases of the elbow etc).
Repeat as necessary

Step 8
Take your tamiya clear red (perform this step with smoke first if you want it dark) and carefully follow your streaks/where you want the blood to look fresh, this is a V glossy paint, and it's thick, so be careful and take your time, I've not experimented with thinning it yet but I'll edit this if it works.

Done, here's the result on a model

You can apply this anywhere, weapons, bases, cuts and bruises on skin:

A few 'drips' always work well, try to thing how liquid would be have on the model, I used the 'splatter' technique quite a lot on this one:

In essence this 'technique' is an exhibition of how good tamiya clear products are, they're amazing, and versatile!

*Blood Mix*
Mine's made from about 10different paints, mixed until I was happy, basically involve washes, a red, a brown/blow and some water effects and you can't go wrong, mine looks like this:

And contains (roughly)
Scab Red
Blood Red
Red Gore
Scorched Brown
Chaos Black
Liche Purple
Dark Angels Green


Red (lots)

Other Stuff

Vallejo water effects
Vallejo Glaze Medium
Gin (I ran out of thinner)